Clinton Street Baking Company is one of New York’s worst kept secrets. It also happens to be one of the best brunch spots in town. A tiny little nook of a restaurant, CSBC can hardly accommodate parties of more than four, although I’ve seen people come in and try to put their name on the list for parties of 6 or even 7. How anyone could take one look at the limited number of tables and not feel like an asshole for coming with a big party is beyond me. Technically, the restaurant is open for brunch from 10-4 on weekends, but the line starts forming even before then, and names stop getting added onto the list around 2:00. It’s not uncommon to have a 2 hour wait on a Saturday or Sunday morning. But let me tell you, it is well worth it!
On a recent weekend I stopped by there with two friends, one of whom arrived early at only 10:15 … there was already a 90 minute wait. So we went around the corner to Sugar Sweet Sunshine Bakery for some iced coffee and a cupcake while we waited. Yes, there’s nothing like a little bit of bakery-goodness to tide you over while waiting for brunch
The Lemon Yummy cupcakes at Sugar Sweet are the best cupcakes in the city if you ask me (which clearly you did since you’re reading this blog). The cake is moist with a slight lemony flavor, and the frosting is a delicious blend of sugary sweetness fettered by the tangy bite of real lemon juice. They aren’t too big to finish, but aren’t so small you feel cheated. And if you split one as an appetizer, they are a perfect way to tide yourself over while you wait for your table over at CSBC.
After our coffee and cupcake sidenote, we wandered back to CSBC, waiting a bit longer, and finally got our table. CSBC is famous for their pancakes. They’re big, fluffy, airy and moist all at once, and they come in plain, blueberry or banana walnut.
While I do admit that they are the best pancakes I’ve ever eaten, I can’t help being partial to the banana walnut version. We’re talking some serious decadence on a plate. Bananas and walnuts are mixed into the batter as well as scattered on top, and the warm maple butter drizzled on top adds the right amount of gooey lubrication for the doughy pancakes. If you’re a pancake lover, this will be your Mecca. These are the Lexus hybrid of the pancake world – luxurious but humble. CSBC is not a pretentious spot, but it damn well tastes like it deserves to be!
If you’re in the mood for something savory, their smoked salmon benedict is wonderful, perched on top of the house biscuits and doused in hollandaise sauce. For those of you who have spent any time in the south, you’ll likely be disappointed in the biscuits. They’re northern style biscuits – thick and crumbly almost like a savory scone. A great biscuit to me is flaky, moist and buttery, but if you don’t try to label them and just enjoy, CSBC’s biscuits still taste good. If you order a biscuit on the side, it comes with their house raspberry jam. My suggestion: no matter what you order, ask for some jam too. Their raspberry jam is more like a sauce than a jam, and is one of the best things in the whole place. Fruity, not to sweet, it is clearly just quality fruit stewed down just right. It goes great on the plain or blueberry pancakes too.
When I was there recently, my friends had the pancakes, but I was in the mood for something different and tried the Farmer’s Frittata which is baked eggs with cheese curds, cherry tomatoes, and some pesto. Great combo or flavors, although I do wish there had been a little more tomato and cheese to egg ratio. Baked eggs always tickly my tongue, all fluff and air, almost like a soufflé, and the pesto-cheese-tomato combo matched very nicely. A little acid from the tomatoes, a gorgeous aroma from the pesto, and some saltiness from the cheese. Perhaps not the star item on CSBC’s menu, but a solid dish nonetheless.
True to their name, Clinton Street Baking Company also offers a variety of baked goods. Their muffins are excellent – I’d consider taking some home in a doggy bag for later – although I have yet to try any of their pies or cakes. Also make sure you flip the menu over and look at the specials when you go. CSBC uses seasonal ingredients to great effect. On a visit earlier this spring I was fortunate enough to go there when they had a “spring scramble” with morel mushrooms, fiddlehead ferns, ramps and goat cheese. It was superb. One of the best egg dishes I have ever had. They also had Strawberry Almond Vanilla waffles once, but were sold out by the time I got seated – a sad loss for my taste buds.
Cliffs Notes Version: Clinton Street Baking Company is one of the best brunch spots in NYC, the best pancakes, and great specials. Go to Sugar Sweet Sunshine around the block for a sugar rush to tide you over while you wait.
Brunch Spot
Clinton Street Baking Company
LES
Saturday & Sunday: 10am-4pm




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