There’s a new kid on the block in the Gramercy area. Located in a bit of a neighborhood no-man’s land on 18th & 2nd, Lantern is a much needed infusion of good eats in an under-served area. Cheap and good, this bright and shiny newcomer still seems to be working out some of the kinks – our appetizer arrived just moments before our entrée (a performance repeated at the table next to us) and we felt very rushed throughout the meal. That being said, for a check totaling $30 for two of us and some pretty tasty Thai food, I couldn’t complain.
I had been dying to try out Lantern since I noticed it moved in down the block from my apartment a couple months ago. The menu is telling – basic Thai fare, some more creative takes on the typical cuisine, and rock bottom prices that make your heartbeat race. Aesthetically speaking, Lantern is very cute. It’s chic and slightly kitschy but somehow maintains a sleek enough veneer to steer clear of being tacky. There are some interesting “trees” in the center of the small dining room with golden leaves hanging from them and a mirrored ceiling that makes the space seem bigger. True to its name, Lantern has a mix of cool wall sconces, chandeliers and interesting light fixtures that elevate the atmosphere above the kitschiness of the giant Bangkok skyline settled behind the bar.
When my friend and I got there the place was packed, although we only had to wait about 10 minutes for a table. Turnover is quick, and tables are packed in. We decided to split an order of the Thai crepe, which was nothing like we expected, but completely delicious. When it came, the “crepe” was a dumpling with a glutinous rice flour wrapper, stuffed with minced radish and peanuts in some sort of brown sauce. The result was fantastic. The filling was sweet – almost dessert-like – and nutty. The smooth and chewy texture of the crepe was a great counterpoint to the crunchy filling, and the Thai sweet chili dipping sauce added additional flavor complexities. For those of you who read “radish and peanut??” and made a face, try not to judge. You would never be able to guess that radish was the main ingredient in the filling. I would have liked to try a different dipping sauce – something a bit salty or sour to counterpoint the sweetness of the dumpling – but my friend thought the sweet chili sauce was perfect.
For entrees I ordered pad see ewe with tofu (my fave) and my friend got the pad thai with chicken. Both came in perfect sized portions. I find that a lot of restaurant portions are too large and I end up overeating simply because the food is there. Lantern’s portions are small, but adequate, and at only $9 a plate, exactly what you’re paying for. The pad see ewe had great flavor, though it was a little oilier that I would have liked. The noodles were perfectly cooked, and the tofu was silky but still managed to maintain its form. For those unfamiliar with pad see ewe, it is thick rice noodles with your choice of meat or tofu, chinese broccoli, and a sweet brown sauce made from a mixture of oyster sauce, sweet soy sauce, and fish sauce. It eschews the fruity, nutty flavor of pad thai for something a bit more earthy.
The pad thai was also good. While not the best pad thai I’ve ever had in my life, it was light years beyond the greasy tasteless stuff you get at most of the cheap delivery placed in NYC.
And when our check came for only $25 for the two of us, we couldn’t help but feel satisfied. All in all, a solid new local fave. It reminds me a lot of Klong, my other great cheap Thai place on St. Marks. I have to say that I think Klong is better, but Lantern is close to home, and good substitute when I’m feeling lazy.
Thai
Lantern
2nd Avenue @ 18th Street
Gramercy
