After my disastrous restaurant week experience at The Water Club, I approached my rest week dinner at I Trulli with trepidation. But my fears were unfounded. The menu there was decent – perhaps it didn’t include the most expensive items on the menu, but they were respectable and showcased the restaurant’s true Italian tradition. The bread basket came with some nice focaccia and a dish of white stuff I first took to be whipped butter but turned out to be a fresh ricotta.

It was creamy with more texture than butter, which was interesting, but in the end I wanted a bit of salt and the smooth silkiness of butter, which the waiter was happy to provide. We were off to a good start.
I was even more impressed when the appetizers came. Me and one of my friends both ordered the grilled baby octopus and it was phenomenal! 
Smaller than I expected, the octopus was literally grilled whole and plated, so we got all 8 tentacles as well as the body. The texture was somewhere between the meaty chew of large octopus and the delicate flesh of a squid. The outside was slightly crispy, especially at the tips of the tentacles, and the body was chewy. The grilled preparation perfectly showcased the natural flavor of the octopus, with just a touch of salt added in. It was served with sliced fingerling potatoes, nice and buttery, some celery, and olives. Very Mediterranean, very traditional, very good.
My second friend got a wonderful heirloom tomato dish as his appetizer.

I forget was its actual name was, but essentially it was a tomato and cucumber salad with a touch of salt, pepper, vinegar & oil on a piece of thick bread, so that the juices from the tomatoes soaked into the hearty bread, drenching it in flavor. Like the octopus, it was simple, showcasing the beauty of the natural ingredients.
I should add as well that I trulli had a wonderful Italian wine list. I got a glass of my favorite – Lambrusco – which is the perfect summer wine if you’re not familiar with it. It is red, but very light and fruity, served chilled and slightly sparkling. Nothing nearly as carbonated as a champagne, but just fizzy enough to add a crisp, refreshing texture. Luckily, we were able to snag a table on the back patio area, and the Lambrusco was the perfect balance for the mild summer night.
Our entrées were slightly less impressive than the apps were, but still very good. My hake (a soft, flaky white fish reminiscent of Chilean sea bass) came literally raw. When I complained the waiter explained that it is served rare on purpose. Now I have nothing against raw fish – I love sushi – but somehow it just didn’t seem right. This was a cooked fish dish, warm, and the stringy texture did not sit well with me. But the restaurant was more than happy to take it back and cook it for a few extra minutes, and on the second try, it was perfect – just cooked through but still soft and tender.

The “sauce” was really a mix of roasted tomatoes, eggplant, zucchini and olives. Again, it was simple but flavorful (see a theme here?), relying on the quality of the ingredients. I must say that for a summer evening, sitting outside, it was also light enough not to sit heavily in my stomach.
My friends both ordered the baby chicken, which came simply roasted, on a bed of sautéed veggies that had tremendous flavor. While I stuck to my pescatarian ways, they both proclaimed it a solid entrée.

Dessert was the one area of disappointment, not that this is a surprise to me as I always find Italian desserts underwhelming – with the exception of gelato, of course. I got the chocolate semi-freddo, which sounded promising, but came too thawed to really be “freddo” at all, be it fully or semi! It had more of the texture of a chocolate mousse, with tiny slivers of ice every so often, not exactly pleasant. And the chocolate was too sweet.

One of my friends opted for the more diet conscious “peche” dessert which was basically a poached peach, skinned, atop a tasteless birds nest. Underwhelming to say the least. I should have gone for the tiramisu.

Overall it was quite a successful rest week affair. Afterall, compared to the Water Club, 2 out of 3 courses isn’t bad! The ambiance is pretty, relaxing, not too loud, and rather authentic. It was easy to imagine in the covered back patio, with the small marble waterfall, that we were really in Tuscany, and not NYC. But alas, we left the restaurant and walked back onto 27h street.
Italian – mid-priced
I Trulli
27h St just west of Lexington
Murray Hill
