Good news to anyone sad that they missed restaurant week – it’s been extended through Labor Day! You can check out participating locations at the NYC homepage.
I have to admit that I was most excited for my 3rd restaurant week foray, to the infamous Butter: Gossip Girl destination, celebrity hotspot, and pinnacle of the too-cool-for-school aesthetic. While I was standing outside with my two friends (only one of which was dining with me) I relayed these emotions. One of my friends is new to NYC and had never heard of the place, so I was telling her of its reputation for snotty, elitist, unfriendly staff and pretentious airs. There was also a guy in a suit smoking against the wall watching us, and as my other friend and I walked into the restaurant … so did he. That’s when I realized that I’d been dissing the restaurant in front if its very own maitre d.
… oops.
Well this turned out not to be such a bad thing as we preceded to receive attentive and friendly service from everyone at the restaurant, including two stops by the maitre himself to make sure that all was well, and complimentary champagne to celebrate my friend’s upcoming wedding (we were chatty with our waiter). And I must admit, that Butter did not live up to its stuck-up reputation – everyone was very pleasant and nice to us.
The menu was another shock. I expected a cursory menu that paid lip service to the idea of rest week without really committing – similar to what we saw at Water Club – but I was pleasantly surprised to see a high-quality menu with respectable options.
And it’s difficult not to be impressed with the décor. I consider myself a hip New York girl, but I felt distinctly not-quite cool enough for the edgy décor, especially the odd bathrooms with red light bulbs. Yet unlike some places that aspire to be trendy and hip, Butter seemed just to BE cool, no effort necessary. The ambiance is part ski lodge, part pacific northwest forest. With lots of wood, dark lighting, and a bizarre backlit picture of a grove of trees as the back wall of the upstairs dining room.
The food was pretty damn good too. I have to say that the calamari appetizer that we got sounded better than the execution though. It was stuffed with a millet mush that… well… that pretty much describes it – mush. The whole affair was then breaded and fried. It was lackluster, but I give them points for creativity and for adding something as ambitious as that to the rest week options.
My entrée was another matter. It was a cod dish with mussels in a bed of sweet pea puree and it was wonderful! The skin on the piece of cod was nice and crispy with a lick of salt to it that cut nicely with the sweetness of the pea the mussels had been cooked in some sort of garlic broth that matched well. My one complaint was that the dish came with three mussels, tow of which didn’t open and were therefore not safe to eat. And the one that was open was good, so it was particularly disappointing.
This was one of several missteps by the restaurant that made what would have been a perfect experience only really good. They also brought our appetizers out too fast, before we’d even gotten bread. The bottle of Riesling we ordered wasn’t really chilled when it was brought out – it was warm. And later on, we got our desserts before we’d even gotten new silverware to eat it with! For such an upscale and trendy place these mistakes were a bit surprising, but it was a good meal none the less.
A good meal topped off by some superb dessert. My friend and I split the lime tart with meringue and a chocolate “sandwich” which was two dense, dark chocolate cake medallions sandwiching a dollop of crème fraiche, with warm fudge and caramel sauces and a scoop of vanilla ice cream.
The lime tart was refreshing, with a nice, tart flavor and a light, airy texture. With citrus tarts it is easy to go for thick, heavier consistencies, but the lightness of this one was such a pleasure, allowing the subtleness of the lime (compared to a lemon at least) dance across your tongue. I’m not a meringue fan, so I scooped that to the side, but the lime filling and wonderfully balanced shortbread crust made for a delightful dessert without the meringue anyways. It was accompanied by the oddest garish though – this clear gelatinous substance that defies description, sweet and flavored with lemon balm, or lemon verbena or something along that line, it wasn’t offensive, but it’s purpose was quite mystifying.
The chocolate sandwich though was really the showstopper. Like my cod dish, there were layers of flavors playing against each other in an intricate dance across my taste buds.
The chocolate cake was deep and rich, with a bitter darkness and depth of flavor that surprised me. This contrasted with the slightly sour hint of the crème fraiche that almost reminded me almost of a yoghurt flavor. The caramel sauce meanwhile was surprisingly salty, without the usual overbearing sweetness that such sauces generally carry. And the ice cream pulled it all together with a touch of velvety smooth cream. It was wonderful. The highlight of my rest week experiences.
So I apologize, Butter, for doubting your dedication and commitment to both rest week and to foodies. Apparently you earned those celebrity followers the old-fashioned way.
Upscale American
Butter
415 Lafayette at Astor Place
Astor Place

























